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Ten Fuel Saving Tips

Get the most out of your usually expensive fuel by trying out these tips and tricks


1.Avoid High Speeds
As your speed increases, your aerodynamic drag increases in an exponential fashion. Driving 62 mph (100 km/h) vs 75 mph (120 km/h) will reduce fuel consumption by about 15%.
2.Do Not Accelerate or Brake Hard
By anticipating the traffic and applying slow steady acceleration and braking, fuel economy may increase by as much as 20%.
3.Keep Tires Properly Inflated
Keep tire air pressure at the level recommended by your vehicle manufacturer. A single tire under inflated by 2 PSI, increases fuel consumption by 1%.
4.Use A/C Sparingly
When the air conditioner is on it puts extra load on the engine forcing more fuel to be used (by about 20%). The defrost position on most vehicles also uses the air conditioner.
5.Keep Windows Closed
Windows open, especially at highway speeds, increase drag and result in decreased fuel economy of up to 10%.
6.Service Vehicle Regularly
Proper maintenance avoids poor fuel economy related to dirty air filters, old spark plugs or low fluid levels.
7.Use Cruise Control
Maintaining a constant speed over long distances often saves gas.
8.Avoid Heavy Loads
Remove the sand bags from your trunk in the spring and pack lightly for long trips.
9.Avoid Long Idles
If you anticipate being stopped for more than 1 minute, shut off the car. Restarting the car uses less fuel than letting it idle for this time.
10.Purchase a Fuel Efficient Vehicle
When buying a new vehicle examine the vehicle's rated fuel efficiency. Usually choosing a small vehicle with a manual transmission will provide you with great fuel economy.

Q&A On Car Waxing

Q: My dealer said that my car’s clear coat of paint would never need waxing. The people at the car wash say that it does. Who’s right?

A: That depends upon what was actually said. If the dealer said that your car would never need waxing, they not only put you in the car -- they also put you on. However, if what they actually told you was that today's clear-coat finishes stay shinier longer, resist wear longer and don't need as much maintenance because they are more resistant to UV radiation, then they were being straight with you.

But the car wash is also contesting for the George Washington/Cherry Tree Award. They’re not out to lose a steady customer just to sell you a one-time wax job. To these people, paint is paint and armor it isn’t. Every day, they deal with cars like yours with factory paint jobs like yours, and every day, they see what can happen to even the finest factory finish through misinformation, neglect or both.

The car wash will tell you that although the new clear coats may resist heavy damage from UV rays, there is nothing in the new paint to counteract the destructive effects of bird droppings, tree sap, industrial fallout, acid rain and thick-enough-to-chew air pollution that tries to finish off your car's finish every day.

My advice is to keep the pollution pox from scarring your car with a nice, thick coat of protective wax.

How To Find A Body Shop

Accidents are bad enough without the added worry of making sure your car is properly repaired. You will receive lots of suggestions about which body shop to use, so make sure to ask the following questions to locate a good one:

Is the shop familiar with the make and model of your car?
How long has the shop been in business?
How do they handle disputes or complaints?
How does the shop look? Is it clean? Professional? Well-equipped?
How does the ongoing work look? How are other cars being handled?
Do they follow original manufacturer guidelines in making repairs?
Are there recognitions from business and industry groups hanging on the walls?
Are certificates of advanced courses or diplomas of competence for the employees displayed in the shop?
Are all policies, guarantees and methods of payment clearly posted?

Cutting Car Costs

From a recent study, here are four of the most common misconceptions drivers have and the facts you should know:

Two out of three motorists think their vehicle tires should be rotated every 10,000 or less miles.
They should be rotated every 6,000-7,500 miles. Costs: Premature tire wear and unnecessary, early tire replacement.

Two out of five motorists believe that a car's warranty is good only if the vehicle is serviced at a new car dealership.
The routine maintenance required to keep a warranty in effect can be done at a dealership, independent service shop or even by the owner. Records and receipts that document the service must be kept. Costs: Higher dealership labor charges for years.

Most motorists think they know the correct pressure for their vehicle's tires.
Only 38% in this study could state it accurately. Costs: Premature tire wear, blowouts, loss of control and early tire replacement.

Almost 40% of all drivers often buy mid-grade or premium gasoline for their cars.
Only 10-15% of all vehicles need high-octane gas. Costs: Unnecessary waste of 10-20% of fuel costs.

Beware Of The Repairs

When choosing a shop for a vehicle that is not under warranty, first talk to friends and family to see if they recommend a place to take your car.

Also see if the facility as been certified by the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). The certification means that some or all of the mechanics at the shop have met basic standard of knowledge in specific technical areas. For example, some areas may be brake work, collision repair, engine repair, painting and alignment.

Even better, find out if the shop is in the ASE Blue Seal of Excellence program. The initiative recognizes shops that have 75% of their mechanics ASE certified and have a mechanic certified in each area of service that they offer.

Often shops display the Blue Seal plaque in the customer waiting area. If you don't see it, don't be afraid to ask if the facility is Blue Seal certified. You can also visit the ASE Web site.

Night Vision Mirrors

Headlights -- particularly those coming from thoughtless folks who refuse to dim their brights -- can momentarily blind the on-coming driver, creating a safety hazard.

It's almost as bad when someone shows up behind you, those beams shining directly into your rearview mirror.

The day/night rearview mirror, which first appeared four decades ago on lists of standard or optional equipment for new cars, alleviated reflective glare to some extent. Yet in night mode any mirror objects save for the offending headlamps seem obscure and hard to see.

A more recent spin-off from the day/night mirror uses electrochromic technology to automatically dampen the effect of bright headlights.

Electrochromic technology is a process of darkening glass by applying an electrical current. Such a mirror contains a thin layer of electrochromic gel sandwiched between layers of glass. When sensors detect glaring light, they energize an electronic system that causes the gel to darken and absorb the light's brightness, thus paring the glare's intensity. Once the glare passes, the mirror reverts to normal mode of high reflectivity. Driver never has to lift a finger because the mirror changes automatically, much like photosensitive eyeglasses darken relative to light exposure.

A few pricey automobiles today provide an electrochromic mirror as standard equipment, but now you may add a deluxe electronic mirror to virtually any car -- thanks to a multi-functional design by Gentex. The Night Vision Safety Mirror, which dims automatically, also has a built-in digital electronic compass, a digital thermostat to display outside temperature, plus an ice indicator that pops on for one minute when the temperature dips below 37 degrees. The mirror's wiring package fits most vehicles.

Service Centers

For the average person with little mechanical knowledge, leaving a car with someone for repairs is a big act of trust. You know your car has a problem, and you want it to be fixed without paying outrageous prices for repairs that weren’t needed, or unexpected charges for services you didn’t ask for. There are some ways you can assure yourself that you won’t be pushed over by zealous technicians that may try to talk you into doing things you don’t understand or need.

One place to start is to ask everyone you know where they take their cars, and what their experience has been. Word will travel fast if there is an unscrupulous repair center. If you’re lucky enough to have a friend who has mechanical knowledge, invite them to go with you to check out a place. If you know your car is having problems but you cannot define what that problem is, having a more knowledgeable friend come along for a test drive could be very enlightening. A noise or other problem that you might not be able to describe will be more obvious to someone with auto repair experience.

If you don’t have anyone you can ask for help, then walk into the repair center armed with all of the information you can come up with. Have your car's symptoms written down to the best of your ability. If you get nervous, you won’t have to try to remember exactly what you were going to say. Make sure you tell the shop to call you with an estimate of charges before any work is done. Ask them if they have any minimum charges. Let the technician know that you will only pay for work done that you actually authorized.

Another important thing to do is to ask for your old parts back. You will then be able to look at the condition of your old parts and perhaps gain a better understanding of your car’s systems. Not only that, but if you’re stuck somewhere, you’ll have your old parts to either put back on in a pinch or know what to order. If possible, you should pay your account with a credit card. This way, if there is a problem later, you can refuse to pay the bill and the incident will be looked into. Finally, a little courtesy goes a long way. Be firm, but not rude when talking with your technician.

Wax On Wax Off!

If you are like me, you love the look of your car after it has been polished and waxed

But waxing your car isn't the timely, labor-extensive chore you might think it is. A few hours spent a couple times a year will give your car a new look. Once you finish the job, you have the satisfaction of giving your car that showroom gleam that not only looks great but also will protect the vehicle's paint from the elements.

When to Polish and Wax

Before getting started, you probably want to know the best time to polish and wax your car. Most people do it twice a year, once in the spring to remove the ravages of winter and once in the fall to prepare it for the upcoming winter.

One way to tell if it's time to polish and wax your car is to watch what happens when you wash your car. Does the water bead up on the roof and hood or does it run off in sheets? Experts say the rounder the beads of water, the better. As soon as the beads start to flatten out, it's time to wax.

Some people also recommend applying the wax when your car is in the shade. But sometimes you may not have to have your car parked in the shade. One way to determine if it is too hot to wax is to put your hand on the car's surface. If you have to pull it away, then it's too hot to wax.

All About Paint

New cars and trucks are almost all painted with a clear-coat finish. This paint is much more resistant to oxidation. This happens when ultraviolet radiation from the sun causes the paint to gradually deteriorate into white chalky dullness.

Clear coats protect better than conventional finishes, allowing new car paint to hold up many years longer. Older cars painted with a conventional finish will face more problems with oxidation than vehicles painted with clear coats.

Although they do protect better than conventional paints, it's a myth that clear-coat finishes don't have to be waxed. They are still subjected to contamination from elements such as bird droppings, bugs, tree sap, industrial fallout and airborne pollutants.

Selecting a Wax

When choosing a wax, make sure it is the right product for your paint. Check the label to see if the wax can be used on clear-coat finishes. Most waxes on the market can be used on clear coats, but there are exceptions. Clear coat paints are quite thin and an abrasive wax may damage the finish.

Car enthusiasts recommend using a carnauba wax. It gives your car a great look, but use caution. It is the hardest natural wax available. If you see a wax that says it's pure carnauba, it means the part that is carnauba is pure, not that it's 100-percent carnauba. Start with a mild wax and go to a more abrasive product if you feel your car needs more protection.

In addition, select a quality wax. This will help you better achieve excellent results. Ask your local detailer or car dealer for recommendations.

Thermoelectric Cooler

Wouldn't it be convenient if the family's automobile, the one used for all-in-the-family trips, contained a refrigerator and warming oven to keep beverages or food chilly cool or toast warm?

A car rigged with a refrigerator and oven would perhaps resemble an oversized mobile home rather than a conventional sedan or wagon, so the idea is obviously impractical.

The only practical way to keep foods warm and drinks cool while on the move in a car until recently was to use sloppy ice chests and leaky thermos bottles. Now, however, there's a slick alternative chest that brings properties of both a refrigerator and warming oven to a compact package that stows within reach of driver and passengers.

The Thermoelectric Travel Cooler and Warmer is the size of a console ice cooler but eliminates the hassle of either a messy ice chest and thermos -- there's no need to stock ice or contend with a breakable thermos lining.

Instead, the unit plugs into a 12-volt power socket and taps the battery for electric current. The charge powers an electric motor that cools or heats an internal metal element. Then a small fan blows air across the metal element to circulate cool or warm air through the insulated plastic chest's storage compartment.

Each unit cools to 40 degrees or warms to 140 degrees. Fruits, sodas and other soothing snacks stay refreshingly chilled, while beverages like coffee and tea -- or to-go orders like hamburgers and fries -- remain piping warm, depending on whether you use the box to chill or warm.

The interior holds even two six-packs of sodas, yet the package fits easily into a family car, while a detachable shoulder strap lets you tote it too.

Checking Fluids

In all their various forms, the fluids that run through your car are like blood running through our bodies - they are essential to keep the car operational. You can maintain fluids yourself or take your car to a mechanic and let him take care of your vehicle. Regardless of who services your vehicle, you must keep fluids in good condition and at proper levels or you will have car trouble.

Generally, oil should be changed every 3,000 miles or three months, which ever comes first. When changing oil, it's important to check the oil filter at the same time to see if it also needs to be changed. You don't want a dirty filter contaminating the new oil.

For your information: Coolant and antifreeze are the same fluid. Regardless of what you call it, this fluid should be changed about once a year and the system should be flushed to remove any built-up deposits. Check your owner's manual for details.

Brake and steering fluids are both critical in the operation of your vehicle. Having the right amount of these fluids is vital for adequate braking and steering power. Check your owner's manual for a maintenance schedule regarding these fluids. Although it may be bright and sunny when you leave for your trip, rain (or snow) will likely come down at least once on your vacation. Make sure you have plenty of washer fluid so you can see clearly through your windshield.

Changing A Tire-The Beginning...

Now, I understand why some people dread doing this task. Changing a tire is sometimes not as easy as it sounds. This is especially true if a person has never changed a tire. It requires some muscle, a willingness to get a little dirty, and some fundamental knowledge about what you need to do before starting.

Speaking from personal experience, the first time I ever had to change a tire was on the side of busy freeway when it was cold, snowing windy. While I managed to change the tire and be on my way after some initial struggles, I wished I had some practice doing this task before I had to do it in that situation.

Don't Forget the Jack

Before you even drive your vehicle for the first time, you should make sure you have all the proper equipment you need for changing a tire. These tools generally are located in the trunk of cars and in wells of sports utility vehicles.

Probably the most important piece of equipment you will need is the jack. Without one, you will not be able to change your tire. Make sure it is in your car and that it is working properly. If you need a new jack, you can buy either the tripod of scissors type, or if you do much under-the-car work, you may want to invest in a hydraulic jack. It is faster and safer than other jacks and doesn't cost too much more money.

If you unsure about how to use the jack, consult your vehicle's owner's manual. If for some reason you don't have an owner's manual, you can take the jack to the local mechanic and he can show you how to use it

Goin' To The Desert

As people who live in these areas know, driving in desert and mountain regions is not like driving in other places. The conditions in these areas put added stress on your vehicle due to either extreme temperatures or altitude, which can lead to problems that may cause your vehicle to break down.

So when travelling through a desert or mountain, drivers need to be aware of the conditions surrounding them and prepare accordingly. This is even more important if you are travelling by yourself.

Remember, desert and mountain regions are often remote and don't have places to service your vehicle like you would find in other parts of the country.

Preparing Yourself

The first thing you should do (and this is something you should do whenever you travel) is to let someone know when you are leaving and when you plan to return. Call this person when you arrive at your destination. And if you have a cellular phone, give that person the number in case of emergency. You don't want to get stuck 50 miles from the nearest town without anyway to reach the outside world.

There are several items that you may want to take with you when you travel in the desert or mountains. Some of the items you might want to pack in your survival kit include: bottled water, extra brake fluid, collapsible shovel, concentrated food, emergency blankets, engine coolant, utility knife, matches, extra motor oil, oil filter, spray bottle, wire brush and baking soda (both for the vehicle's battery).

Bring a map of your destination as well as maps that show the best way to get there. Many auto insurance agents offer free maps, or your can purchase them at gas stations or convenience stores. You can get maps that show route and driving directions through a travel club or on the Internet.

Preparing Your Car

Besides taking care of yourself, you also need to make sure your vehicle is ready for the journey. It's a good idea to get full-service tune-up at least a week or two before you leave. Don't wait until the day before because if there is a major problem with your car or truck, the repair shop may need a few days to fix it.

While the car is at the shop, have your mechanic check for "play" in the water pump. Also have the radiator "pressure checked" for leaks that are not as obvious on a visual inspection.

Either do it yourself or have your mechanic check the coolant strength in the radiator overflow reservoir with a hydrometer. The antifreeze should be clean and up to the proper level. Check all belts and hoses associated with your coolant system carefully. Make sure there are no cracks. Replace any ones that you are not sure of and carry extra belts and hoses.

Check all your vehicle's fluids. This includes oil, coolant, brake fluid, power steering and automatic transmission fluid, hydraulic clutch fluid and windshield wiper fluid. If you are unsure how to check these fluids, have your mechanic do it. Change the oil and filter - they should be changed every 3,000 miles.

Make sure your battery is ready for the strenuous task ahead. Triple-digit temperatures of the desert and high altitude of the mountains can wear down a battery easily. Have your battery "load tested" if it's more than four years old. Replace it if it's more than five years old. Check the battery terminals yourself for corrosion. Terminals can be cleaned with a wire brush dipped in baking soda and water. Make sure it is properly secured so it can't tip over and lose electrolyte.

Extreme heat and higher speeds are tough on old worn tires and brand-new ones. Inspect your tire-tread wear and maintain proper tire air pressure according to your owner's manual. Check that your spare tie, jack and tire tools are in good condition. Put air in the spare tire. It is also good tire to carry an extra spare tire. Sharp rocks could render more than one of your tires useless.

When driving get into the habit of watching gauges and warning lights. If the temperature gauge gets too high, turn off the air conditioning. Be sure your headlights, taillights, brake lights and turning signals work, and replace any burnt-out bulbs.

Road Conditions

The conditions of desert and mountain dirt roads are foreign to most people. They can be snow covered, full of potholes and they can change from season to season. A road that might be fine in the summer may be unreachable in the winter.

Low-riding cars with little clearance will have a hard time navigating a rugged road. Pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles will do better on a back road because they have higher clearance.

Regardless of the vehicle, make sure you check its bottom for vulnerable spots. Knowing where important components like your muffler, catalytic converter, air conditioner, oil pan and exhaust pipes are will help you carefully steer you way around a dicey spot. A punctured oil pan is not something you want to deal with while you are driving in the middle of nowhere.

Getting Stuck

If you get stuck in the middle of the wilderness, think before you act. You don't want to try anything that will endanger yourself. A road that is mud in the morning may turn into dirt in the afternoon. If you are not sure of the way out, don't leave your vehicle unless you have no other alternative.

If you have a cellular phone, you may want to try it. However, lonely stretches of back road are often out of the range of cellular phones, so don't count on it working all the time. If you told someone where you are going and when you are supposed to be back, you could sit in your vehicle and wait for help to arrive.

If you didn't tell anyone where you are going, you may have to walk out. A reasonably fit person can walk about three miles an hour. You should consider weather conditions and availability of food and water before you start walking. Leave a note with car describing your walk routing and take a map with you showing your vehicle's location.

Regardless if you are on a dirt road in the middle of the desert or snow-covered path in the mountains, remember to use caution. Being prepared will save you from potential problems that may arise.

Parking Lot Protection

If you leave work, feeling nervous because the parking garage is dark and empty. Here are some tips on what you can do to protect yourself....

Change from your work shoes into sneakers before leaving the office. You’ll be happy to be wearing the sneakers, in case there’s a need for a sudden sprint.

At night, don't go into a parking structure or lot alone. Ask a co-worker, a building security guard, a janitor or even the police to escort you to your car.

Carry your car ignition key pointed out between your index and middle fingers. In case of trouble in close quarters, it can double as a jabbing weapon.

Watch the parking structure or lot, especially the area right around your vehicle, for any suspicious activity. If anything feels funny, stay away until it goes away or call the cops.

Scan the interior of your vehicle, especially the back seat, before getting in.
Keep your doors and windows locked at all times.

Getting Ready for the Heat!

I’ve removed the snow tires, changed the oil, and had the salt underneath my car washed off. Do I need to do anything else to get my car ready for the warm weather?

Quite a bit, actually. Let’s start with your wipers. They slogged back and forth more dependably than snowplows, clearing the grime and brightening your vision. They sacrificed their little lives for your safety, so give them a decent burial in the proper refuse can, and install some new vision vigilantes.

Then, clean up. Lift up the wiper arms to purge all the twigs, dead leaves, weathered parking lot stubs and other debris. Clean off the air and radiator intakes.

Next, pop the hood and have your cooling system checked. If the mechanic says you need new antifreeze, but the color is still bright green or blue, you need a new mechanic. But if it's dull or obviously dirty, change it. In the interest of keeping cool (for both you and your car), have the thermostat checked. They’re cheap; so don’t be shy about replacing it. While the hood is up, check the belts and hoses.

Are your brakes grinding, squealing, screeching or chattering? Give yourself and everybody else on the road a break by going, non-stop if possible, to the best local brake specialist.

Finally, don't get the cold shoulder from too-busy air conditioning shops during their busiest season. Have your AC checked ASAP!

Road Trip!!!

I'm Planning a driving vacation. What should we carry in case of emergencies?

You didn't say where you are going or what you're driving. If it's a new Benz and your plan is to compare pedicures from every spa and resort between Palm Springs and Palm Beach, then the only emergency kit you need is a fistful of no-limit credit cards.

But if you're simply going to tour our fruited plains and amber waves of grain, from Seattle to shining Sea Island, Georgia, don't leave home without a car phone, along with a bag packed with these potentially life-saving goodies:
Flares
Flashlight with warning beacon or red lens
Jumper cables
First aid kit; the big, semi-industrial one
Towels or clean rags
Bottle/can opener
Thermal blanket
Bungee cords or rope
Tire inflator and pressure gauge
Bottled water
Protein bars

Tool kit: Multi-tool knife, pliers, large and small Phillips and slot head screwdrivers, large and small adjustable wrenches, heavy duty tape, extra fuses and light bulbs.
Disposable camera

Rush Hour Plan + Kit

What can I do to avoid gridlock?

Traffic standstill is like the great white shark in Jaws. As soon as you pull into the line at the on-ramp, you can hear the eerie soundtrack. It’s out there, it’s coming, and our best minds can’t seem to stop it.

The best way to avoid it, of course, is not to be there when it happens. So plan ahead. Check the radio for alerts and warnings. Read the newspaper in the morning to find out what’s going on in your community and when it’s happening. Then do what your department of transportation should have done for you years ago: work out perimeter routes. You’ll cover more distance, but in the long run, they’ll save you extra hours of anger, frustration, and a possible angioplasty.

Even with the most carefully planned escape routes, though, you can still get stuck. So be prepared. Depending upon where we live in this nation, we motorists carry a variety of disaster caches in the trunks of our cars. We’re ready for blizzards, tornadoes, earthquakes, floods -- you name it. However, we never seem to be prepared for the hours of grinding, infuriating, despair caused by gridlock and traffic jams, which are increasingly a simple fact of life.

I never leave home without my wait-it-out kit. It contains books on tape to take me out of there metaphysically if not physically, energy bars to sustain me and several large containers of my favorite bottled water to hydrate me. A cell phone and a Prozac or two are optional.

One last tip: Turn off your engine after five minutes of idling. If it overheats, when Officer Moses parts the traffic to let everyone through, you’ll be sitting there steaming and may become the cause of another major traffic tie-up.

Swerve Away From Road Rage

Has the whole world caught road rage?

It used to be that when people got angry they would take a long drive and cool off. Today, it's more like they take a long drive to take their anger out on somebody else. Where it used to take two to tangle, police reports now show that an increasing number of vehicular and car-related personal assaults have absolutely no inciting factors. More and more drivers are taking out their frustrations by deliberately attacking innocent drivers.

Arrive Alive is the official slogan printed on some state's license plates. What it means is: Don't let road rage ruin your day or life.

To avoid problems try these tips:

Avoid eye contact. Eyes on the road.
Do not shout, threaten, tease, or flip off other drivers for any reason.
Use your horn only if absolutely necessary.
Give speeders, road hogs, weavers and cutters the right of way.
If someone is threatening to attack you, or is following you, drive to the nearest police station, highway patrol or sheriff's station.
Notify the police immediately about any deliberately hostile or aggressive driving actions against you or others.
Always keep your seat belt fastened. Your chances of surviving an accident are greatly increased if buckled in.

When Good Parts Go Bad

Here are some ways to tell if you have worn shocks or struts:

Excessive bounces (3 or more) after crossing a dip.
Vehicle rocks back and forth after stopping.
Vehicle drifts left or right when braking hard.
Vehicle rocks side to side when changing lanes.

Recognize any of these signs of impending strut or shock failure? Think now. Sometimes, these symptoms sneak up so gradually, motorists think that's the way the car always reacted. Okay, now that you've considered it again, and might consider that something may be wrong, take it to a good repair tech who will (or should) look for any of the following potential or actual trouble spots:
Leaking shock or strut. The component is losing fluid and can't provide the correct resistance.
Coil clash. Topping and bottoming of the spring coils created by too much suspension travel.
Broken or loose mounts. Shock or strut connection may be broken at either end.
Broken or damaged piston rod. Unit can't operate properly.

Any of these symptoms can be signs of a damaged shock or strut. Not only can that damaged or worn component affect your ride comfort but it can also drastically affect your safety comfort because the entire front-end alignment, the steering, the braking and overall handling can be headed toward heavy damage and so can your entire vehicle and you

Diagnosing Engine Problems

What's Wrong With My Engine?


It's a good idea to know how your car behaves when it's healthy, because if something starts to change, you'll know there's a problem. Your engine exhibits certain symptoms depending on the problem. A trained mechanic has many diagnostic tools at his disposal to pinpoint the noise you're hearing, but here are some common worries:If you're getting bad fuel mileage and your engine is missing a beat, there's probably a dead cylinder. You'll need to find the problem cylinder to find out why it's not firing.Are your spark plugs sparking? Are the tips covered in gunk? While disconnecting spark plug wires, be sure the engine is turned off to minimize risk of shocking.If you have sparks and your tips are clean, you may have a dead fuel injector.An oil test can help determine the problem. A sample of oil sent to a lab can reveal traces of metals in your oil. Aluminum in oil comes from pistons. Bearings and radiators are made of brass or lead. Steel comes from the crankshaft. If the test shows coolant or water, you know there's a leak.A badly tuned engine will use more fuel and money. Pay attention to when your dashboard engine lights come on and what you're doing. For instance, does your "check engine" light come on when you're going uphill, or at certain speeds?